Patrick and Kari's Travels

As expected Tongariro National Park was breathtaking; being in the presence of three active volcanoes was quite humbling. As we drove into the park we were able to see the glaciated top of Mt. Ruapehu, which had a minor eruption just last September. With the dangers of our intended trek in mind we booked two nights in the Tongariro Northern Circuit huts. Most backpacking tracks in New Zealand are regulated by night and have huts of varying luxury. So for slightly more money we decided to leave our tent in the car and enjoy the world of hut camping. We also decided to catch a shuttle (for the modest price of a dollar per minute per person!) to the base of Mt. Tongariro in hopes that we would have time to climb Mt. Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom).

We started the hike surrounded by people attempting the Tongariro Crossing (a way to see the scenery without camping). In a line, that amounted to follow the leader through the national park, we walked through lava fields and to the base of the Devil’s Staircase (we later learned that 1,200 people completed the crossing the day we started out). Though the staircase didn’t seem to get the best of Pat it left me huffing and puffing, humbled once more as people more than twice my age zoomed on up the jagged boulders.

At the top of the staircase (cliff); we reached the base of Mt. Doom. After a few minutes discussion we decided we’d better climb it lest we regret not trying later. An hour and a half later we rewarded by looking into the caldera of a live volcano (no there was no lava) and enjoying the panoramic view. After a few quick pictures it was back down the mountain to finish the three hour hike to our hut.

The hike to the hut took us through a large crater created by eruptions a millennia before and the Emerald lakes. The lakes are colored by sulfur and are the most vivid turquoise, a stark contrast to the craggy volcanic rock that surrounds them.

We reached our hut as sunset was beginning to color the sky, there we found almost all 26 beds were filled. We were lucky enough (though I wasn’t feeling too lucky at the time) to find two beds next to each other on a top bunk with a German couple for bunk mates. The huts are quite interesting because while camping in the United States has a strong focus on solitude and reflection camping in New Zealand is slightly more like moving from one dinner party to the next.

After falling asleep to the voices of fellow campers we awoke early and hit the road. The track to our next hut took us through some exposed ground with strong wind and clouds. Then we were back in a sheltered crater and enjoying the alpine vegetation.

After covering 12 km or so we entered a beech forest (beech trees are one of New Zealand’s dominate plants species). After spending the day exposed to wind and sun the forest was amazing, we found ourselves unexpectedly cut off from all the harshness of the volcanoes. After the forest we reached our hut and spent another similar night nestled next to strangers (friendly strangers though).

The next morning we hiked out, and headed south towards Wellington.

Wellington proved to be a beautiful city. We stayed in a hostel near downtown and enjoyed the sites. We visited the Wellington Zoo (where we saw our first live Kiwi) and the Te Papa museum. Te Papa is New Zealand’s national museum and it was gorgeous –great design and waterfront location, with over 6 levels of exhibits. Other than that we relaxed and explored the nation’s capital.

Kari and I are on the South Island now. We came across on the Ferry on the 14th. The Ferry ride was fun and quite smooth. It was more of a cruise ship than it was a ferry. We then camped for 2 days in the Marlbourough sound before going to our new Wwoof residence. The place we are staying is located on the road between Picton and Nelson along the Marlbourough sound. It has splendid views and is very comfortable. Our Hosts James and Barbie are very nice and feed us very well. It may be some time before any more pictures are uploaded for your enjoyment as we do not have computer access at James and Barbies and we cannot upload unless we can hook Kari's laptop in.

That said you will just have to wait to hear about our trip around Mt Doom and to see the pictures. We are planning to stay at James and Barbies for at least the next 7 to 10 days so you will have to wait, sorry.

patrick

PS: It seems to me that those of you who have commented on our posts have had to sign up for an account with travellerspoint. Since this is the case anyone else who wants to comment I believe this is the way to do it.

Today Pat and I will depart from our third WWOOFing address. Though our original plan had been to travel south directly after staying here in Waikanae, circumstances at the WWOOFing address led us to slightly modify our plans (don’t worry it wasn’t all bad the family was nice; the room had an amazing view of the sea and we had a hot tub at our disposal…however the food was mediocre at best and apparently our hosts hadn’t realized the word organic is a key component to the WWOOF acronym and at the end of the day we’re WWOOFing to learn about organic gardening and farming or at least get fat on delicious wholesome foods). So we are now planning on driving back up north briefly to visit Tongariro National Park.

Tongariro National Park contains three active volcanoes and was the site of Mt. Doom in the Lord of the Rings. We plan to tramp in the park for four days and stay in our first NZ backcountry huts. Then on the last day we will throw the one ring into the fiery pits of Mordor from whence it came and the world will be freed of evil, or at least that’s the plan.

Hopefully the weather will hold, though we’ve decided we will set out rain or shine – we’re both aching to do some backpacking.

We’ve fallen a bit behind with the blog, it’s difficult because the internet infrastructure in NZ is quite different from the States (generally pay per upload) so here is a quick synopsis (in photos, you know a pictures worth a…) of our last two weeks.

Pat and I exploring mature Kauri forests.

A.H. Reed Memorial Canopy Walk

Gorgeous Whangarei

Morning outside of Auckland

In Egmont we stumbled across hundreds of people waving American Flags in celebration of Americana, a classic car show. Naturally we stopped and had a look around, we even enjoyed a Coney Island hotdog (or so they mislabeled it).

The coastline of the South Taranaki Bight

Hiking in Whanganui River Valley

Also I haven’t seen a possum yet, but I have sadly added hedgehogs to my list of road kill mammals.

Kari

It has been more than a week since we left Avalon but memories of our last day with the De Jong's are still vivid in our minds, when after days of rain the skies cleared allowing the De Jong's to take us out on their 3 meter boat in the Bay of Islands. After picking up some fishing bait (sardines), we launched the boat from Opua Bay a mere fifteen minute drive from Avalon

The sky was smattered with clouds and though we did feel the occasional rain drop it was quite nice to see the shore retreating from vision as we splashed through the waves. With Willem behind the wheel we made for Turtle Bay. We arrived at the bay to find that friends of the De Jongs were already there enjoying a day on their boat. We roped up and enjoyed a glass of white wine with our sandwiches. Then it was into the water for Sara and I. She and I paddled to shore and explored some rocky outcrops (much to the dismay of my still tender soles). We were soon joined by Pat, who had thought to put on his snorkel, Willem and Julia.

Back at the boat we toweled off while Julia dangled her toes in the water. Surprised she yelped that there was a huge fish in the water swimming around her toes. We all ran to the side of the boat but saw nothing (naturally we thought she was imaging the fish) then out of water we could make out a meter and a half long Kingfish. We watched the fish swim casually around the boat for a few minutes and then decided that we had better head out and go fishing ourselves.

We set anchor at Black Rocks and pulled out our rods. After a few frustrating minutes of having fish stealthy steal our bait, I am proud to say I landed the first fish (it was quite a small snapper). It seemed that after one was caught we simply couldn't stop reeling them in. Though there was only one keeper among the thirty or so fish we caught it was quite an enjoyable deep sea fishing experience.

The sun was sinking to the horizon when we pulled up on shore and loaded the boat back on to the trailer. A perfect way to end our stay with our first WWOOFing hosts.

Kari